Thursday, December 3, 2015

Magnificent Lima Peru - December 3, 2015

Along the Malecon of Miraflores, Lima, Peru
After spending two weeks in Lima earlier this year, we knew we had to return again. Our visit earlier this year simply whet the appetite for more. The rent is downright cheap. $2,300 for two summer months in one of the worlds great cities. Four bedrooms and three baths. Fabulous 180 degree views of the Pacific from a height of 330'. Our District of Miraflores is as upscale as South America gets. The four mile stretch of the Malecon which runs along the cliffs is as dramatic as Big Sur with a fabulous neighborhood attached.


After living just off Michigan Avenue in Chicago I can tell you that Miraflores restaurants, cafes and sight seeing match up extremely well. Known as the foodie capital of South America. it is one of the world's greatest gathering of famous chefs, it has blown us away with lunches and dinners that make you drool.

I'll get deeper into the food and restaurant scene in a separate article. Museums are fun and we saw the anthropological Amano Museum yesterday. I was amazed to find that various Indian cultures wore kilts about the same time as the Celts were wearing them in Ireland and Scotland. 

Sunday, October 4, 2015

Salinas, Ecuador - October 4, 2015




We have been in residence at the Vista Del Mar Condo at 2 Degrees South in Salinas, Ecuador since Sept. 30. Salinas is located on a peninsula that is the most western point in South America. We have yet to eat out at a restaurant. Cooking at home, we've had pot roast on Thursday, and fresh stone crabs and fish roe on Friday. Tonight we may visit one of our favorite restaurants or finish the stone crabs!

The Seminoles will play Wake while Bama visits Georgia. World Cup Rugby and MLB will also be featured. I'm hoping the boys will get the Sling Box up and running soon.

It's spring in South America and the days here are 65-75 degrees, partly sunny and with a light to moderate breeze. Nights are cool and quiet this time of year. A little busier today than expected, the weather has been warmer than usual by 5-10 degrees and the Ecuadoreans love Salinas. This mile long crescent beach along with the adjacent Chipipe beach is filling up now (2:30 PM).







Saturday, October 3, 2015

Salinas, Ecuador - October 3, 2015



Lunch at Cafeteria Del Sol. Chicken soup for me and Grilled Pulpo for Irene. Walked 3-4 miles in this very walkable town in the 74 degree sun along the Malecon.

Watched the NFL and the MLB final day on my Sling box app and watched Tanneyhill, the deer in headlights. Talk about deja vu!

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Our 2015 - 2016 Itinerary

2015 - 2016 ITINERARY - September 23, 2015

Sat., Sep. 26
Flight from Chicago to Ft. Lauderdale, FL 

Sep. 26-30 

Pompano, FL
Wyndham Sea Garden Pompano

Wed., Sept. 30, 2015 
Flight from Miami, FL, US (MIA) to Guayaquil, EC
Condo at Vista del Mar, Salinas, EC

Thu., Nov. 12 - 19, 2015

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Thu., Nov. 19 - 30, 2015

Condo at Vista del Mar, Salinas, EC

Mon., Nov. 30 - Feb. 2, 1916

Flight from Guayaquil, EC to Lima, Peru
Condo in Milaflores

*Cusco, Peru 12/14? 
*Machu Picchu, Peru 12/17?

Tue., Feb. 2, 2016
Flight from Lima, Peru to Guayaquil, EC

Sat., Feb. 6, 2016 

Flight Guayaquil, EC to Palm Beach, FL
Dr. Joe’s House
400 Sea Spray Avenue
Palm Beach, Florida

Sat.,  Feb. 13, 2015
Ruairi and Stacy's Wedding

Mon., Feb.15, 2016
Flight from Miami, FL to San Juan, Puerto Rico

Tue., Mar. 8, 2016 (24 hour layover)

Flight from San Juan, PR to Stockholm, Sweden

Thu., Mar. 10, 2016
Flight from Stockholm, Sweden to Madrid, Spain 

Thu., Mar. 17, 2016
Tarifa, Spain

*Tangier, Morrocco 4/1 (weekend by ferry)

*Gibralter 4/8 (day trip by ferry)

Split, Croatia 4/17

Korcula, Croatia 5/17

Rimini, Italy 6/17

Galway, Ireland 

Kinsale, Ireland 7/30

*Nice, France 8/28

*Istanbul, Turkey 9/1

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Our Itinerary

2015
October- Salinas Ecuador
November-Salinas/Galapagos
December -Lima/Macchu Piccu 

2016
January-Lima
February-Palm Beach & San Juan
March-Spain (22 Schengen days of 90 days)
April-Spain, Portugal (+30=52 Schengen)
May-Amsterdam & Ireland. (+15=67 Schengen)
June 4th ... Miami for Pat & Jordan's wedding. (from Amsterdam $709 RT)
June 16th Return to Amsterdam with Kaya for a week or 2 prior to Dublin/Galway
(+14 of 23 left in Schengen)
July 9th Galway until July 30
August-Kinsale (begins July 30th)
September-Amsterdam? Chicago?
October-SanFrancisco
November-Tokyo or Taiwan
December-Penang 

2017
January-Penang
February-Bangkok 
March-Hua Hin
April-Ching Mai
May-Tokyo 
June-Tokyo or Taiwan
July-Chicago 
August-Lima 
September-Lima
October-Santiago Chile
November-Montevideo Uruguay
December-Montevideo

2018

January-Buenos Aires
February-Buenos Aires
March-Rio
April-Miami & Chicago 

Friday, June 26, 2015

Endings and Beginnings - June 26, 2015


Today is June 26, 2015, and the end of my long and enjoyable sales career is exactly 3 months away. It began as an apprentice to "The World's Greatest Salesman," a title my dad Joe bestowed upon himself. I learned from a true genius at reading people, selling the sizzle and knowing precisely when to close. It wasn't always pretty, often it was very funny, and always it was an adventure.


After a brief summer selling televisions in a local appliance store between my sophomore and junior years in HS, I got the urge to make money. I talked Joe into taking me with him to a franchise show in Milwaukee where he had a hot commodity. The product was the Sea Jeep, a small 7' fiberglass boat that had a 6 HP engine. Joe's original partner was an Italian gigolo with lots of cash to invest. Johnny DeSimone looked a lot like Julius La Rosa ("Eh Cumpare" for you septuagenarians) and was a good closer with rich women. Eventually Johnny D got tired of his 20 hour work week and gravitated back to hanging out at the Fountainbleau Hotel looking for unattached gals with plenty of dough. The trip to Wisconsin really opened my 16 year old eyes to how much money one could make with a good product and a golden tongue. This led to future stints with Joe and his various partners as well as a few jobs in Tallahassee which required short hours and high commissions.

As a History and Government B.A. from Florida State University, I was looked upon as a can't miss sales representative by both Union Carbide and Xerox. I chose Union Carbide primarily because of a wonderful man named Tom Skehan who was married to a wonderful woman, Ann Skehan who had been my CCD teacher in HS. That's religious instruction, Catholic style. The Skehans were the perfect Irish American family and were close to my Mom and Dad (Joe). Tom was a hot shot upper level member of the Union Carbide family by this time and had great influence. I loved working there, although it was short lived.

My job began in Philly for training and then to NYC as my first territory. I met some of the greatest sales people with unreal charisma during that short period of my life. My trainer was John Gilseanen, a Long Islander with movie star good looks, a platinum tongue and semason tickets to his beloved Islanders. Selling in NYC was a total dream. It was 1972, and I was making $11,000 a year with a company car and a wide open expense account. Life was perfect! Except I was alone. Irene Matsue Ball changed that by joining me in January 1973 when I made the move to a higher paying job and a chance to live and work in Boston.

Boston was great, but Dearborn Chemical (Rohm & Haas) was as stuffy as Union Carbide. It was a time of great opportunity for someone with my background, so in April '73, I abruptly joined my third conglomerate in 10 months. WR Grace had just decided to sink or swim with a California video tape start-up that badly needed a rep that could make things happen in New England and Eastern Canada. I was that guy and I agreed to a first year package of $22,500 all in with a huge (in those days) car allowance of $450 per month and wide open expenses.

I finally had the job I wanted and was able to excel. In less than a year, through a combination of mistakes, good guidance and exceptional luck, I was enjoying a downtown Boston life style that  was close to as good as it gets for a 25 year old corporate rep. I closed Buffalo and the tri-city area (Syracuse Albany and Troy) and opened up Montreal and Toronto. These big accomplishments were landing contracts with CFTO in Toronto and McGill University in Montreal. Alas, after a sensational year with Karex (WR Grace) selling 1/2 and 1" video tape, the corporate in-crowd was warned that Karex would be sold and that finding alternative employment would be a wise thing to do. A man named Jim Ringwood gave me a huge heads up and found me a new employer and a way to get back to Chicago, where I grew up until I was eleven years old.

Having been booted out of high school, survived hundreds of scrapes, real and imagined, it didn't seem so unusual to me that I was about to embark on my 4th job in a little over 2 years. I became the interim Branch Manager of GBC/CCTV in Boston, a ma & pa outfit that was taking off like wild fire. I had solid success in Boston and was offered the same position in Chicago. I was 26 years old, running an office with 5 people reporting to me, working in a fancy office with a great downtown address, 233 East Ontario.

It was a very exciting time for Irene and I as we moved into Lake Point Tower, the premier apartment building on the lake in Chicago, the most eastern point in the city right next to Navy Pier. Irene was hired by Leo Burnett Advertising as an Asst. Account Exec, and we were truly up and running with our careers. After one year and an income leveling off at $27,500, I began to notice an up and coming, privately owned company that was knocking them dead in Chicago by leasing cameras and VCRs at extravagant prices. I applied for a sales position that would end up doubling my income in five years. I was off and running, so we decided it was time to raise a family. My son needed the stability that siblings could provide. In 1980, Danny was born, a glorious day just before Thanksgiving.

After 5 years of solid success, I caught wind of a greedy plan that the owner was going to reneg on promised rollover commissions that would cost to me tens of thousands over the next 5 years. At a secret meeting, the top earners in our sales force decided to join an up and coming Video Division of a long established Chicago iconic corporation with a reputation for integrity. I was now on a path that would see me employed by 2 companies over the next 35 years. The commissions were the highest in the industry, and we absolutely killed it. My income went to 6 figures in 18 months on the job. Seamus was born on Halloween 1982. Everything I did for the next 15 years was golden, and we moved to River Forest, Illinois on June 7, 1984.


Our home at 814 Bonnie Brae Place was 5,000 sq. ft. We traveled all over the world with and without the kids. The boys got a wonderful education in the finest schools. I was able to play baseball at a high amateur level until 44 years old. I even got to play with my son Patrick on a team that I coached. He was off to college on a D1 baseball scholarship and thrived. My son Dan played baseball on nationally recognized travel teams and wound up with a scholarship to college as well. Seamus was the football player in the family, and he excelled in baseball as well. In 1986, along came Ruairi who would benefit from his brothers' success and his own off-the-charts ability. By 1998, he was arguably the best 12 year old player in the Midwest.

My son Wataru is a "whole 'nother story." He moved in with us at 15 years old, and won everyone over immediately. He was a wonderful brother to all and a great example at the homework table. He came kind of out nowhere and stayed for 13 years. He graduated from Fenwick HS in 3 years after barely speaking the language at the start. He graduated from Dominican University in 3 years. Scratch golfer. GFG!

I was able to travel to baseball games with the kids virtually every night and every weekend with other great families of like mind. In '98, I changed companies due to the imminent sale of the corporation, and was able to join a company that was so close to mirror image of the one I had just left that I felt 100% at home and continued to thrive as the security industry became high tech. The dollars rolled in and my lifestyle did not change at all. The boys were excelling in school and on the playing field. Patrick spent 9 years in professional baseball of which 3 were in Cologne, Germany. One year Danny joined Patrick on the team him and my wife Irene got to see one game in Cologne where she and her friend Monica watched them both hit Home Runs!

Irene found a job at Dominican University and reinvented herself as a Webmaster, 1 mile from our home, and earned a Masters degree in Computer Science. Danny was able to transfer and attend college for free. Talk about a win win situation! 

Seamus attended Columbia College in downtown Chicago and graduated with a degree in video editing and animation. Ruairi was asked by Florida State University to leave high school in the middle of his senior year to join the baseball team, which he did. That resulted in a wonderful 5 year adventure. He graduated with an English Literature degree after being named captain of one of the great D1 baseball programs in the country. One of his fellow captains and part time road roommate was Buster Posey!

The recession hit hard, and we all felt it. My income was affected, and our retirement took a big hit.  Irene was able to step up her game and significantly right the ship. All during the most difficult economic times our boys were in college or just graduating which was both a hit economically and a fantastic buoy to the family moral. These years were some of our most memorable despite a shift in future plans.

As I wind down the last months of full time employment, Irene and I have put a plan together that will allow us to travel the world semi-permanently as long as we want as long as we are ambulatory. On our workable budget, we intend to rent for months at a time around the globe in places we have always wanted to see. Our home away from home will be Tokyo as often as any destination because the family has offered us the family home, and because we love Tokyo.

I leave the company with a bright future in a changing industry that continues to grow with Angela and a smart young future team that includes a veteran office staff. Many thanks to the Severino family for giving me an outstanding opportunity. Good luck to Victor and Tony in retirement.







Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Miraflores District of Lima, Peru - March 25, 2015


Welcome to Irene & Pats Lima Peru review. This will be the second trip to review an area of the world that we might want to spend more time in. We will be all over the globe and hope that some day some of you may join us or be able to make some of your own travel decisions based on our input.

In 2013 and 2014 we pretty much fell in love with Salinas, Ecuador, and we have decided to make many return trips. This year we will review the Miraflores District of Lima. We have studied this area on line for a couple years and it sure sounds like a probable keeper. The sheer beauty of the coast must be breathtaking in person based on all written and visual accounts. In the fall we will head back to Salinas until Ruairi and Stacey's Wedding. Then on to Penang Island in Malaysia to undertake a similar review.


The People: In Lima there are about 8 million residents, 3rd largest city in the America's. 15% of the population is White. 37% are Mestizo. 45% are Indigenous People. A fraction are Black or Asian. In Miraflores about 30% are White and 67% are Mestizo. There is a stream of Indigenous Peruvian People coming into Lima daily. These Provincianos are made up of Serranos and Cholos (Migrants of the hill and mountain country)and they have changed the make-up of Lima's inner city. There is no evidence of these people in Miraflores, San Isidro or Surco. They are the poverty stricken class that work the most menial jobs available in Lima. Money and education determine class here as in most places. The difference is very apparent when comparing neighborhoods.

Our time in Miraflores: We have rented a condo that is on the northwest side of Miraflores. It's on top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean and just off of restaurant row which Limeno's call "Calle Gastronomica". Lima and Miraflores specifically is the foodie haven of South America and named as the Gastronomical Capital of the Americas (as in North, South and Central) since 2009. The area abounds with great restaurants and hotels. The weather is rarely over 80 or under 60 anytime of year, 70 is the norm. Significant rain just doesn't happen. The humidity is comfortable at about 70% this time of year. It is significantly higher (80-85%)in their wintertime which makes the high 60s feel warmer.

Right away we found out: *Driving is a little nuts but there is a technique similar to Italy (daring cat & mouse) *Pedestrians are an endangered species with no crosswalk laws like in the US. *The people of Miraflores are wonderful and very helpful in introducing Gringos to their slice of the paradise pie. *Tourism is strong and getting stronger. Lots of visitors from Australia, Europe, Asia and the rest of South America.

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Back Home in Chicago

Tuesday, March 24th

Peruvian Shuttle was 10 minutes early and we were ready to go. An interesting 45 minute rush hour ride to Jorge Chavez allowed us to take in the march to work by average Limoen's through several middle class and poor neighborhoods was quite enjoyable. Avianca made sure things weren't perfect by putting us on a bus with no A/C for 20 minutes. Good thing I'm an easy going fella! I'm on the flight to Mexico City as I write these words.......Visit Miraflores if you get that chance!

PROLOUGUE
The rental market for Miraflores will run about $1500-$2500 per month for an ocean front Condo with balcony. If you don't require the ocean view, stay off the Malecon and it can be significantly less. 
My advice is to visit VRBO, AIRB&B, Home Away or other on-line rental sites well in advance. If you are staying a shorter period of time there are a plethora of 3+4 star hotels that can be had for $60-$70 a night. The Marriott is sensational and $180.
Our place had 3 bedrooms, 2 baths and a nice kitchen. It was $80 per night for a 2 week stay. For 2 months it will be $1500 per. Remember that everything is negotiable and typically there are no utility or internet charges.

If you are wondering about Machu Picchu, we simply put it off until next time. We have decided to return for at least 2 months. The MP trip takes about a week to do it right.....with Cusco and Lake Titticaca as part and parcel.

Our next trip down here will include Montevideo, Uruguay for sure, and maybe Valparaiso, Chile.

Prologue Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Peruvian Shuttle was 10 minutes early and wee were ready to go. An interesting 45 minute rush hourride to Jorge Chavez allowed us to take in the march to work by average Limoen's through several middle class and poor neighborhoods was quite enjoyable. Avianca made sure things weren't perfectby putting us on a bus with no A/C for 20 minutes. Good thing I'm an easy going fella! I'm on the flight to Mexico City as I write these words: VISIT MIRAFLORES IF YOU GET THE CHANCE.

The rental market for Miraflores will run about $1500-$2500 per month for an ocean front Condo with . If you don't require the ocean view and stay off the Malecon it can be significantly less. 
Our place had 3 bedrooms, 2 baths and a nice kitchen. It was $80 per night for a 2 week stay. For 2 months it will be $1500 per. Remember that everything is negotiable and typically there are no utility or internet charges.

If you are wondering about Machu Picchu, we simply put it off until next time. We have decided to return for at least 2 months. The MP trip takes about a week to do it right with Cusco and Lake Titicaca as part and parcel.

Our next trip down here will include a review of Montevideo, Uruguay for sure and maybe Valparaiso, Chile.

PROLOGUE

My advice is to visit VRBO, AIRB&B, Home Away or other on-line rental sites well in advance. If you are staying a shorter period of time there are a plethora of 3+4 star hotels that can be had for $60-$70 a night. The Marriott is sensational and $180.



Monday, March 23, 2015

Leaving Lima Tomorrow

Monday March 23rd

Up at 7 with coffee on the balcony. We will miss the view which we are drawn to for hours at a time. Mesmerizing to scan these many miles from 300' above the beach. The usual hustle and bustle of Limoen's getting their work outs in and heading to work. Got outta the condo at 8 sharp and back to Larcomar for breakfast at Mangos on the cliff. Great food, good service, better view. Lolligagged over breakfast and stopped at the Marriott for directions to the Avianca office here in Miraflores.

Avianca is the only airline I am aware of that won't assign seats until 24 hours prior to departure. A real pain in the ass. Another 2 mile walk and a 20 minute wait to see an agent rectified the situation. If you have a choice between Avianca and Copa or Aeromexico don't think twice, 86 Avianca!

Back at noon to pack and prepare to return to Chicago where it snowed 2-4 inches this morning. I yi yi...enjoyed the heat wave on the Malecon where it was 80 today. 
Made a last minute decision to eat at La Mar again about 430. Ceviche Mixto for 2, then Grilled Lobster for yours truly and Garlic Butter Shrimp for Irene. You just can't find a better place to enjoy fine dining at crazy low prices!

We packed and then chilled on the balcony until 10 PM. 

Sunday, March 22, 2015

Next to Our Last Day in Miraflores

Up at 7. Watched a smaller but still good size crowd below stretching, running, jogging and biking their way along the Malecon. Old and young, pretty and dumpy, all trying to get an early start to their Sunday. Rained a little last night making things a darker shade of green. The sea is beautiful and empty except for surfers enjoying a slight off shore breeze. No parasailing yet. Not sure where all the fishing is done here but I can see about 25 miles of coastal waters with very few active fishing boats. They say that this is one of the most plentiful fishing areas of any ocean and that is obvious if you visit the markets here. Shellfish is significantly more expensive here than in Ecuador probably due to the massive shrimp farming industry there. 

Walked the 3 mile trek to Larcomar and ate brunch at the other Tanta restaurant. The Soltado sandwich on chibata bread with onions tomatoes and peppers was excellent and Irene had eggs. We met Laura from Philly who was sitting next to us. We heard her amazing stories about what it's like to be a Peace Corps worker in Peru's high desert. She makes a whopping $333 a month! I'm thinking we could afford to pay people like Laura a whole lot more than that!

Finished our exercise by finding another neighborhood we hadn't walked through and got back about 3PM. Weather cooled to a high of 86 inland and about 82 on the cliffs. The evening temperature was at an even 70 at 8PM with a cool Pacific breeze which we enjoyed on the balcony. Watched the replay of Djokovich besting Roger Federer. 


Our last full day is maƱana and we were out like a light at 10.

Saturday, March 21, 2015

Toshiro's

Great sleeping at 68 degrees with all the windows open and a beautiful breeze
off the ocean. Waves pounding the shore and providing a very deep sleep.
Up at 9 to the sound of what appears to be 8 year olds practicing soccer.
Mixed cream with 2% milk to create half & half and perched on the balcony watching one excellent coach for every 5 players do their drills. 25 kids out there.
Surfed the net, looked at the NBA and NHL standings and schedules and hit
the shower. Got ready for an extravagant lunch at Toshiro's which is reputed
to be the best Japanese restaurant in South America.

We experienced our first precipitation this morning. It lasted about 15 minutes and did not interrupt the soccer, runners or cyclists. Hoping it stays dry so we can walk by the embassy's and parks that are all along the way back from Toshiros. It's in San Isidro, the adjacent upscale District which is full of nice homes, foreign embassys and huge Parks. The meal was sensational. We were greeted by Toshiro himself and Irene had her picture taken with the man. Irene had 2 small steamed conch appetizers cooked in their beautiful little conch shells. She followed that up
with 2 of the largest Shrimp I have ever seen grilled in garlic miso. I had Tonkatsu,
gyoza and yakitori. We really enjoyed the beauty of the restaurant, the service and
especially the food. Another 10
Walked about a mile and a half through the gorgeous residential section mixed with fine restaurants, upscale businesses and hotels to our regular Wong's grocery 
For crema, OJ and pop. Taxi'd back for $2 and enjoyed a 4th day in a row over 80.
(88 downtown set a record and 84 in Miraflores. They average 5 or fewer days over
85 per year and we've seen 2 this week. Everything is a little cooler and breezier 
above the Pacific and our condo was a perfect 74 with a cool soothing breeze.
Gotta get back to Hardy in San Francisco! Trying to ignore the Bulls and Hawks 
results.

Friday, March 20, 2015

Miraflores - Friday, March 20

Now we begin our 4 day weekend wind up to the Miraflores review. It's been seriously relaxing for both of us as well as very healthy due to the climate, sun and exercise opportunities. We decided to approach the final days without changing our general routine. Although we still might make breakfast 1 day at the Puku Puku Cafe. They say the coffee they serve is the very best in Peru and the pastry is better. 
So we slept in and didn't get around to coffee until 1030. Worked, read, chilled on the balcony until 1 when we walked to La red, yet another fabulous culinary delight.
Irene's shrimp look like a painting that belonged in an art gallery.
She loved them. I had my (believe it or not) favorite meal so far, a half pound of
perfectly cooked beef sirloin with an exquisite gravy heavy with cilantro. The rice and beans and accompanying habanero sauce were outta this world..another 10.
Walked over 3 miles on a very hot day for Miraflores. We strolled the inner District, took a lotta pictures and wore ourselves out. The temperature (83) is at least 5 degrees warmer away from the beach with much less breeze. Still not a drop of rain and when it mists (hasn't the last 3 days) it dissipates in the air. Watched Roanic beat Nadal while the 20 year olds went at it below. Followed the Bulls and Mirotich 
as they beat Toronto for the 3rd straight time. 

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

March 18

We had intended to have breakfast at Tanta but couldn't due to work related delays.
So we went for lunch. Well worth the effort. Fried wontons with chicken and rocconto cream served with guacamole. A Green Tamale (cilantro laden delight) and Lomo Soltado (Beef tenderloin sliced with rice, sweet onions, mushrooms and sweet red peppers in a beef gravy enhanced differently by each chef).

Irene had the paella which was loaded with shellfish and chorizo.
We taxi'd each way and hung out at the condo because of business and my huge blister. Oh well! A quiet and beautiful afternoon and evening ensued. A magnificent sunset followed by some good soccer and a good book. Reached 81 for the second straight day. The Limeno's are acting like its 95! Everything is relative.

Wednesday, March 18

Worked all morning and enjoyed coffee and the constant movement below. Biking.Parasailing.Soccer.Volleyball.BBall.Walkers.Runners. Great theatre in general. Meandered over to Costanera 700, the world famous Restaurante for a 230 Rez. Chef Humberto Sato has been featured on Anthony Bourdain's CNN show and many others. It did not disappoint. Irene had fried fish rowe and I had Langostinos  Tempura. The service was superb and we actually had a private room all to ourselves in which Bourdain ate with Sato. Very cool indeed. We ordered more food for dinner to go and hurried back to put it in the fridge while still hot. The sea bass and bouillabaisse were delicious at 8PM! Fell asleep reading about 1030 getting used to Glitzky as a PI. It hit 81 degrees today!

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

St. Patricks Day in Lima

After another delicious cup of Columbian Aribica on the balcony we headed down
the Malecon to Larcomar. We actually found 2 excellent maps after searching
for days. Hit the Starbucks at the Marriott for agua and a respite before heading to Alfresco's for lunch. Great place in an energetic residential neighborhood just off
the Malecon. Really enjoyed the food, the service and the price! Walked to Wong's supermercado and got some essentials. This Wong's is on the second floor of a high rise close to the restaurant. Both stores are held to an excellent standard
of cleanliness, freshness and service. Prices are about 10% higher than Ecuador.
(About 20% less expensive than the US on most items, especially produce)
Took a taxi for $3 back to the condo. Worked the phone for a couple hours and 
fell asleep reading the further adventures of Dismas Hardy and Abe Glitzky "Keepers."

Monday, March 16, 2015

Monday

Slept in until 9. Got a few business calls in and checked in with the office. 
Wound up with a morning full of crunching numbers for a CEO client
that was in need of help for his presentation to stockholders. It appears to have
worked out and looks like a deal is in the offing so we headed to celebrate 
at the number 1 Ceviche restaurante in the whole world "LaMar".
We enjoyed a shellfish extravaganza and a fantastic grouper Ceviche.
Wontons stuffed with crab, shrimp and lobster in special sauce were next.
Decided to cover some streets we hadn't walked yet and spent about an hour 
at the Wongs Grocery Market (think Publix/Whole Foods). Taxi return was $2.25.
Games keep getting better down at the Park. Outstanding futball/soccer+volleyball 
Is being played by all ages. The 20 something soccer and volleyball games are worth watching! ......Cutting into my reading time.

Sunday, March 15, 2015

Lima City Bus Tour

Walked 3 miles down the Malecon and wound up at Larcomar.
Took a cab to Parque Kennedy and grabbed a 3 hour tour of downtown
Lima by day. Well worth it. Except for the Catacombs...Gross!
The streets were crowded with Peruvians enjoying their Sunday. 
The city alternates between modern buildings, Colonial architecture and grungy. 
Places to hang out and places not to hang out. But a huge vibrant energy
throughout. At this point we decided that Miraflores and the surrounding 
Oceanside Districts are the places to be. We returned to Parque Kennedy and had dinner at Cafe De La Paz, a French/Peruvian fusion restaurante that has been around a long time. It was packed outside so we had a top notch meal inside.
Onion Soup, Beef & Pepper Soltado Pizza, a seafood platter and seafood soup.
Fantastic + too much.Take home time. Returned to Our Malecon De La Marina condo.

Time to make a few observations: The Miraflorens are pretty and they are in shape.
They are friendly and affable. There is a city vibe of hustle and bustle reminiscent 
of Chicago with a homey suburban Oak Park/Naperville/Huntington Beach feel.

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Saturday in Miraflores

Up at 8 to head down to the Balta Parque and watch the hangliders take off. Right off the 400' cliff with a gentle 15 mile an hour breeze. Amazing to see as 1 after another took flight. Walked back to watch a senior futbol game that was highly contested with some hard feelings, bumps and bruises. These 50'year olds take it very seriously. Took a cab across town ($2) to Kennedy Park where DBl/deck bus beach tour was just taking off. We spent 2 hours on the cliffs and beach 
roads below, watched a guy dive from about 150' into the very cool Pacific.
Grabbed a "Pepito Manolo" steak sandwich at Manolos (9) and headed back to
the condo. 

Sunny every day so far with some rolling fog/mist coming and going in the early and late parts of the day. Started John Lescroart's "The Keeper" and dozed off 2 hours later. Temps were 79/70.

Friday, March 13, 2015

Mercado for lunch on Friday the 13th

It's Friday, March 13th. We had coffee on the balcony after sleeping in until 10. Edwin the tech arrives, installs
a new router with repeaters, and we have the wireless internet speed we expect. 

Off to Mercado, (10) another Gaston Acurio wonder of a restaurant. Irene had pulpo
while I tried Ceviche and pig. Best meal so far in a string of fabulous restaurants. 

Took the upper deck Mirabus tour of Miraflores and got to see the District.  It's very clean, teeming with energy and good vibes. Very upscale with 5 star hotels
and restaurants everywhere. Very Southern and Central California like. They are building everywhere. In 5 years this place is going to be a major tourism destination.

Came back to our Condo and chilled. A walk in the seafront park (3 miles long on the cliffs above the beach) put the evening to rest. 78 degrees today and 68 tonight

Thursday, March 12, 2015

Day 2 in Miraflores

Woke early. Had coffee on the balcony while the District (Miraflores is a District of Lima) awakened. Runners and walkers everywhere on various journeys.
Stayed there chatting until 11 when the internet tech came to review the sad situation. Gonna try a new router with repeaters. He will return maƱana. Heading to the highly rated Pescador Capitales restaurante for lunch at 1.

Irene had octopus, langostinos and scallop ceviche with a large portion of 
Grilled octopus (pulpo). I had a lobster risotto and a pork shoulder with Mango sauce and boiled Peruvian yellow potatoes. The restaurant was a large open vibrant scene with a business and upscale slant. Service was impeccable and the ambience was simpatico! We loved it. 


We walked by Mercado and La Mar on the way to and fro--2 more of the superb restaurantes on Calle La Mar which the locals call "Calle Gastronomica". Two miles covered on a "Hot" Lima day...it reached 81 today. Lots of sun. We haven't seen a drop of rain yet and don't expect that we will.
Sat on the balcony over the 180'ocean view and chilled with an special sugar cookie a la Irene.

Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Waking Up in Beautiful Miraflores

Slept in until 9! Enjoyed watching our section of Miraflores wake up. 
There are myriad bikers, runners and walkers streaming by on the paths
designated for each as well as a waiting line for the next vball or futball game.
There is a small open stadium futbol pitch and 2 large bball/vball courts below.
No hangliders this early as the mist is still burning off. Decided to make our way to Larcomar, a famously located Mall built into the cliffs above the ocean. First class.
Ate a fine breakfast with a spectacular 180 view. The 3 mile walk back deserved a taxi ($2.25) and we got one. It turned sunny and 76 while we were out. The Malecon is absolutely gorgeous.

Back at the condo we went on....and mostly off the net, wrestled with the TV and 
wound up on the balcony of eternal serenity.
We watched the sun set on the Pacific and headed to the Asian/World fusion, highly rated Costazul restaurante with Chef Perroquet. His son waited on us and it was a truly memorable evening of fine dining. Skinned Octopus with garlic olive oil drizzle and avocado and tomato slices with toasted French bread strips. Causa with fried sea bass, maize, yucca and herbs. Shrimp and crab filled empanadas with 3 awesome dipping sauces. A large Sea Bass filet with garlic pepper sauce and white rice. A "10" pure and simple for Tripadvisors number 6th rated joint in Lima. Causa by the way is a Peruvian dish of mashed potatoes with lime stuffed with Avacado, crab, shrimp,fried sea bass or a combo or all of the above. Right up my alley!

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Miraflores District of Lima, Peru - March 10, 2015



Welcome to Irene & Pats Lima Peru review. 

This will be the second trip to  review an area of the world that we might want to spend more time in. We will be all over the globe and hope that some day some of you may join us or be able to make some of your own travel decisions based on our input. In 13 and 14 we pretty much fell in love with Salinas Ecuador and we  Have decided to make many a return trip. This year we will review the Miraflores District of Lima. We have studied this area on line for a couple  years and it sure sounds like a probable keeper. The sheer beauty of the  coast must be breathtaking in person based on all written and visual  accounts. In the fall, we will head back to Salinas until Ruairi and Stacey's  Wedding. Then on to Penang Island in Malaysia to undertake a similar review.

The People: In Lima there are about 8 million residents, 3rd largest city in the America's. 15% of the population is White. 37% are Mestizo. 45% are Indigenous People. A fraction are Black or Asian. In Miraflores about 30% are White and 67% are Mestizo. There is a stream of Indigenous Peruvian People coming into Lima daily. These Provincianos are made up of Serranos and Cholos (Migrants of the hill and mountain country)and they have changed the make-up of Lima's inner city. There is no evidence of these people in Miraflores, San Isidro or Surco. They are the poverty stricken class that work the most menial jobs available in Lima. Money and education determine class here as in most places. The difference is very apparent when comparing neighborhoods. 

Our time in Miraflores: We have rented a condo that is on the northwest side of Miraflores. It's on top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean and just off of restaurant row which Limeno's call "Calle Gastronomica". Lima and Miraflores specifically is the foodie haven of South America and named as the Gastronomical Capital of the Americas (as in North, South and Central) since 2009. The area abounds with great restaurants and hotels. The weather is rarely over 80 or under 60 anytime of year, 70 is the norm. Significant rain just doesn't happen. The humidity is comfortable at about 70% this time of year. It is significantly higher (80-85%)in their wintertime which makes the high 60s feel warmer. Right away we found out: *Driving is a little nuts but there is a technique similar to Italy (daring cat & mouse) *Pedestrians are an endangered species with no crosswalk laws like in the US. *The people of Miraflores are wonderful and very helpful in introducing Gringos to their slice of the paradise pie.  *Tourism is strong and getting stronger. Lots of visitors from Australia, Europe, Asia and the rest of South America.

Arrive Lima, Peru

Arrived in Lima, Peru on time at 8:47 PM  after long but pleasant flights with a change of planes in Mexico City.
Peruvian Shuttle provided a black SUV limo for a $20, 20 minute trip to Miraflores.
Our driver spoke English and we made plans to reconvene for the return trip.
We found the Condo loaded with goodies if not extravagant in furnishings.
The balcony and fabulous views instantly made up for any minor shortcomings.
The Pacific is beautiful, powerful and magnificent all at once.
180 views of the beaches and cliffs that make up an absolutely stunning Miraflores!
We drank agua, took in the view and almost fell asleep sitting up at 1030.