We took Copa Air from Chicago to Panama City, where we stayed one night. We arrived the next day in Guayquil, Ecuador, and stayed a night at La Mansa hotel in the center of the city on the Malecon. We hired a driver to take us to Salinas - under 2 hours on a great highway.
We were very happy to arrive at the condo we found online. They call this condo "2 Degrees South" as it is 2 degrees south of the equator. We are on the 11th floor across the street from the center of a beautiful half moon bay...it's like a giant emerald pool. They told us that our condo has the best balcony view on our beach. I must agree. The balcony is 60 ft x 15 ft. The kitchen is huge and modern. The gas stove is older but functions. Good fridge. Sensational 20' island with seating, plus a large dining table located in the 20' X 25' great room which includes a 44" Flat Screen with Direct TV Sud America HOOKED TO MY SLING BOX APP! Three huge bedrooms each with en suite bathrooms. A half bath. A Jacuzzi. The joint is fabulous. But it's the balcony that is 900 square feet of beach living at its finest which blows me away!
The Beach
About 2 miles of 60-100 yard wide beach packed at times by Ecuadorean families on weekends and school breaks. Fisherman catch huge marlin and tuna and then sell it right on the beach. Lobsters are for sale for $5-$10 along the Malecon....delicious. Hang gliding, kite surfing, boat rides and Jet Skis abound. Walking west, there is a larger crescent beach in a high end Condo City called Chipipe Beach. Here you have more families, condo residents and locals that want less noise.
The Ecuadorian military academy is on the west end of Chipipe Beach, but the beach is open to the public. We walk there all the time. A 3rd beach with heavy surf is about a 4 miles away on the north side of the peninsula. The Chocolatera is located at the western most point of South America there where the Pacific crashes against the rocks populated by sea lions and sea birds.
The Ecuadorian military academy is on the west end of Chipipe Beach, but the beach is open to the public. We walk there all the time. A 3rd beach with heavy surf is about a 4 miles away on the north side of the peninsula. The Chocolatera is located at the western most point of South America there where the Pacific crashes against the rocks populated by sea lions and sea birds.
Long Term Accommodations
Long term begins with a one month or longer stay. You can find an awesome place online by using Home Away, VRBO, Tripadvisor etc. Locally, you can find the perfect place with Kim Kagan of Island Resort Realty right on the Malecon. In any case most rentals have 2 or more bedrooms. This is because of the large families in Ecuador. It's the most Catholic country in the world. A first class 4 star condo with 3 bedrooms will set you back $1100-1500 per month. Many have all the modern amenities that cater to boomers, including common areas with pools, jacuzzis and grills. Most come with a private balcony and ocean view. With no ocean view, these can rent as low as $700 a month. Buying one of these runs from 100 to 250K. A new with 1 to 2 bedrooms can be as low as $85-100K.
Restaurants
1) Big Ralph's - serves gourmet fare. It's a very nice clean restaurant. Ralph is a very nice man that has serious cred as a chef. His wife is a lovely local lady who is the hostess. Ralph has 6 nice hotel rooms. The menu runs from $8-$15, and you will not go wrong if you just throw a dart! Be aware that the seating has no back support. The picnic bench style seating is all that is offered.
2) Lovin Oven is a seaside delight. A basic hole in the wall kitchen that provides sensational fresh seafood and is conveniently located half block from our centrally located 2 Degrees South condo. A 14 ounce Sea Bass Limon with cauliflower and white rice is $8. Shrimp Risotto $8. Crab or Shrimp Ceviche $8.
3) Smokin is an authentic Texas BBQ. Great gumbo. Good steaks (which are very hard to find here). Perfect chicken fried steak.A solid breakfast. American style plates. A 24 ounce beer is $1.50. A high percentage of the clientele is American and European.
4) Italian Gourmet has outstanding appetizers and Pasta. Deserts are off the charts. We love the service and the atmosphere. A little pricey ($25-$40 for 2) for Salinas but worth it.
5) Parradilla Entrafuegos is a grilled meat specialty restaurant. You order Beef, Pork or Chicken grilled to perfection, served with great sides. The rice and beans were really special. About $30 for 2.
6) Cafeteria Del Sol is not a cafeteria as we Yanks know it. It is a fine restaurant with great food.
You will not get a bad meal here. I recommend everything. Part of "Hotel Bleu" right on the Malecon with a wonderful ocean view from every table.
7) Dollar Pizza is an unusual place to say the least. Marco is an Ecuadorean Chinese chef who studied in the U.S. at USC and built his own brick oven in which he cooks really great pizza. 3 nights a week he has a great American-style burger that rocks. On Thursday and Friday, he has great Chinese food as well. A charming and interesting man, Marco is a delight to converse with.
There are at least a half dozen other good choices. The cervicherria's are all good. Ceviche is fresh fish and shellfish that is marinated in lime juice with onion, cilantro, celery served with popcorn. The locals describe it is a "party in your mouth."
This October, I'm headed to La Gondola Pizzeria Trattoria which is the latest local hot spot. We plan try Mariscos Azul, an expensive Peruvian restaurant on the beach al fresco.
Shopping
There is mall very much like one in the U.S. is a short cab ride away in La Libertad. It has a movie theatre with many screens in English and Spanish, two pharmacies, a food court with KFC and other local food stalls, and a large, modern Comasariato supermarket. The beef steaks are second rate, stew meat is the norm, and pork is the main meat available along with chicken. Prices 20% or more lower than the U.S.
Another large grocery store is SuperMaxi, the one I prefer, is located about 2 miles from the condo. It's a $1 taxi ride each way. It is very modern and a bit cleaner. Closer to home is Jr. Comisariato, a smaller super market a block away right behind the condo. It carries most any immediate need and is very convenient.
Miscellaneous
- Rental cars are expensive, but gas is only $1.50 a gallon.
- Hotels are about $50 or $60 a night for nice accommodations. Taxis are everywhere and cost about $1.50 for a ten minute trip, $3 for longer.
- No trips around the Salinas area are longer than 15-20 minutes. Prescriptions are a fraction of US cost. Glasses and frames are about half price or better. Reliable drivers to the airport in Guayaquil are easy to find at about $50 each way. Same for trips to Montanita, the rain and cloud forests or Manta.
- The roads are improving rapidly. The highway from Guayaquil to Salinas is newly paved road very much like a U.S. interstate. The coastal highway to Montanita and Manta to the north is much the same.
The Currency
The Ecuadorian currency is the U.S. Dollar! One of many great advantages of traveling to Ecuador.
The Downside
Some consider Ecuador a third world country. The truth is that it can be gritty in the inner city of Guayaquil and in some areas of Salinas. By gritty I mean dirt roads and older structures that will soon be torn down in the nicer areas. The Malecon itself is boardwalk that runs the length of the beach with new modern skyscraper hotels and condos missed with old 2 story buildings in bad repair. The streets behind the Malecon are being changed from dirt to pavement, but slowly. Overall the feeling we get in Salinas is a combo of Miami Beach circa-1958 with Mexico City 2015.
The Upside
Ecuador is as beautiful as this world can get. The people are honest and friendly as you will find anywhere. Politics are stable. The poor have a friend in President Correa. The American baby boomers are everywhere thanks to the low cost of living, great weather year around and good, affordable health care. It makes for a pleasant mix of people. Finding health care does require some research, primarily letting your Ecuadorean liaison know what you need so they can find a good doctor at about 15% of the U.S. cost. As often as not, the doctor will have been educated in the U.S. In Salinas there is a very good Naval Hospital that is available to US citizens for any serious issue.
The Bottom Line
You can live like very well here for $2500 a month. You can live like an king for $3500.
If you have more than $3500, you will be able to travel all over South America where the
cost of travel is low and there a many wonderful places to visit.
