Miraflores District of Lima, Peru - March 25, 2015

Welcome to Irene & Pats Lima Peru review. This will be the second trip to review an area of the world that we might want to spend more time in. We will be all over the globe and hope that some day some of you may join us or be able to make some of your own travel decisions based on our input.

In 2013 and 2014 we pretty much fell in love with Salinas, Ecuador, and we have decided to make many return trips. This year we will review the Miraflores District of Lima. We have studied this area on line for a couple years and it sure sounds like a probable keeper. The sheer beauty of the coast must be breathtaking in person based on all written and visual accounts. In the fall we will head back to Salinas until Ruairi and Stacey's Wedding. Then on to Penang Island in Malaysia to undertake a similar review.


The People: In Lima there are about 8 million residents, 3rd largest city in the America's. 15% of the population is White. 37% are Mestizo. 45% are Indigenous People. A fraction are Black or Asian. In Miraflores about 30% are White and 67% are Mestizo. There is a stream of Indigenous Peruvian People coming into Lima daily. These Provincianos are made up of Serranos and Cholos (Migrants of the hill and mountain country)and they have changed the make-up of Lima's inner city. There is no evidence of these people in Miraflores, San Isidro or Surco. They are the poverty stricken class that work the most menial jobs available in Lima. Money and education determine class here as in most places. The difference is very apparent when comparing neighborhoods.

Our time in Miraflores: We have rented a condo that is on the northwest side of Miraflores. It's on top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean and just off of restaurant row which Limeno's call "Calle Gastronomica". Lima and Miraflores specifically is the foodie haven of South America and named as the Gastronomical Capital of the Americas (as in North, South and Central) since 2009. The area abounds with great restaurants and hotels. The weather is rarely over 80 or under 60 anytime of year, 70 is the norm. Significant rain just doesn't happen. The humidity is comfortable at about 70% this time of year. It is significantly higher (80-85%)in their wintertime which makes the high 60s feel warmer.

Right away we found out: *Driving is a little nuts but there is a technique similar to Italy (daring cat & mouse) *Pedestrians are an endangered species with no crosswalk laws like in the US. *The people of Miraflores are wonderful and very helpful in introducing Gringos to their slice of the paradise pie. *Tourism is strong and getting stronger. Lots of visitors from Australia, Europe, Asia and the rest of South America.

Back Home in Chicago

Tuesday, March 24th

Peruvian Shuttle was 10 minutes early and we were ready to go. An interesting 45 minute rush hour ride to Jorge Chavez allowed us to take in the march to work by average Limoen's through several middle class and poor neighborhoods was quite enjoyable. Avianca made sure things weren't perfect by putting us on a bus with no A/C for 20 minutes. Good thing I'm an easy going fella! I'm on the flight to Mexico City as I write these words.......Visit Miraflores if you get that chance!

PROLOUGUE

The rental market for Miraflores will run about $1500-$2500 per month for an ocean front Condo with balcony. If you don't require the ocean view, stay off the Malecon and it can be significantly less. 

My advice is to visit VRBO, AIRB&B, Home Away or other on-line rental sites well in advance. If you are staying a shorter period of time there are a plethora of 3+4 star hotels that can be had for $60-$70 a night. The Marriott is sensational and $180.

Our place had 3 bedrooms, 2 baths and a nice kitchen. It was $80 per night for a 2 week stay. For 2 months it will be $1500 per. Remember that everything is negotiable and typically there are no utility or internet charges.

If you are wondering about Machu Picchu, we simply put it off until next time. We have decided to return for at least 2 months. The MP trip takes about a week to do it right.....with Cusco and Lake Titticaca as part and parcel.

Our next trip down here will include Montevideo, Uruguay for sure, and maybe Valparaiso, Chile.

Prologue Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Peruvian Shuttle was 10 minutes early and wee were ready to go. An interesting 45 minute rush hourride to Jorge Chavez allowed us to take in the march to work by average Limoen's through several middle class and poor neighborhoods was quite enjoyable. Avianca made sure things weren't perfectby putting us on a bus with no A/C for 20 minutes. Good thing I'm an easy going fella! I'm on the flight to Mexico City as I write these words: VISIT MIRAFLORES IF YOU GET THE CHANCE.

The rental market for Miraflores will run about $1500-$2500 per month for an ocean front Condo with . If you don't require the ocean view and stay off the Malecon it can be significantly less. 
Our place had 3 bedrooms, 2 baths and a nice kitchen. It was $80 per night for a 2 week stay. For 2 months it will be $1500 per. Remember that everything is negotiable and typically there are no utility or internet charges.

If you are wondering about Machu Picchu, we simply put it off until next time. We have decided to return for at least 2 months. The MP trip takes about a week to do it right with Cusco and Lake Titicaca as part and parcel.

Our next trip down here will include a review of Montevideo, Uruguay for sure and maybe Valparaiso, Chile.

PROLOGUE

My advice is to visit VRBO, AIRB&B, Home Away or other on-line rental sites well in advance. If you are staying a shorter period of time there are a plethora of 3+4 star hotels that can be had for $60-$70 a night. The Marriott is sensational and $180.

Leaving Lima Tomorrow

Monday March 23rd

Up at 7 with coffee on the balcony. We will miss the view which we are drawn to for hours at a time. Mesmerizing to scan these many miles from 300' above the beach. The usual hustle and bustle of Limoen's getting their work outs in and heading to work. Got outta the condo at 8 sharp and back to Larcomar for breakfast at Mangos on the cliff. Great food, good service, better view. Lolligagged over breakfast and stopped at the Marriott for directions to the Avianca office here in Miraflores.

Avianca is the only airline I am aware of that won't assign seats until 24 hours prior to departure. A real pain in the ass. Another 2 mile walk and a 20 minute wait to see an agent rectified the situation. If you have a choice between Avianca and Copa or Aeromexico don't think twice, 86 Avianca!

Back at noon to pack and prepare to return to Chicago where it snowed 2-4 inches this morning. I yi yi...enjoyed the heat wave on the Malecon where it was 80 today. 

Made a last minute decision to eat at La Mar again about 430. Ceviche Mixto for 2, then Grilled Lobster for yours truly and Garlic Butter Shrimp for Irene. You just can't find a better place to enjoy fine dining at crazy low prices!

We packed and then chilled on the balcony until 10 PM. 

Next to Our Last Day in Miraflores

Up at 7. Watched a smaller but still good size crowd below stretching, running, jogging and biking their way along the Malecon. Old and young, pretty and dumpy, all trying to get an early start to their Sunday. Rained a little last night making things a darker shade of green. The sea is beautiful and empty except for surfers enjoying a slight off shore breeze. No parasailing yet. Not sure where all the fishing is done here but I can see about 25 miles of coastal waters with very few active fishing boats. They say that this is one of the most plentiful fishing areas of any ocean and that is obvious if you visit the markets here. Shellfish is significantly more expensive here than in Ecuador probably due to the massive shrimp farming industry there. 

Walked the 3 mile trek to Larcomar and ate brunch at the other Tanta restaurant. The Soltado sandwich on chibata bread with onions tomatoes and peppers was excellent and Irene had eggs. We met Laura from Philly who was sitting next to us. We heard her amazing stories about what it's like to be a Peace Corps worker in Peru's high desert. She makes a whopping $333 a month! I'm thinking we could afford to pay people like Laura a whole lot more than that!

Finished our exercise by finding another neighborhood we hadn't walked through and got back about 3PM. Weather cooled to a high of 86 inland and about 82 on the cliffs. The evening temperature was at an even 70 at 8PM with a cool Pacific breeze which we enjoyed on the balcony. Watched the replay of Djokovich besting Roger Federer. 

Our last full day is mañana and we were out like a light at 10.

Toshiro's

Great sleeping at 68 degrees with all the windows open and a beautiful breeze
off the ocean. Waves pounding the shore and providing a very deep sleep.
Up at 9 to the sound of what appears to be 8 year olds practicing soccer.
Mixed cream with 2% milk to create half & half and perched on the balcony watching one excellent coach for every 5 players do their drills. 25 kids out there.
Surfed the net, looked at the NBA and NHL standings and schedules and hit
the shower. Got ready for an extravagant lunch at Toshiro's which is reputed
to be the best Japanese restaurant in South America.

We experienced our first precipitation this morning. It lasted about 15 minutes and did not interrupt the soccer, runners or cyclists. Hoping it stays dry so we can walk by the embassy's and parks that are all along the way back from Toshiros. It's in San Isidro, the adjacent upscale District which is full of nice homes, foreign embassys and huge Parks. The meal was sensational. We were greeted by Toshiro himself and Irene had her picture taken with the man. Irene had 2 small steamed conch appetizers cooked in their beautiful little conch shells. She followed that up
with 2 of the largest Shrimp I have ever seen grilled in garlic miso. I had Tonkatsu,
gyoza and yakitori. We really enjoyed the beauty of the restaurant, the service and
especially the food. Another 10

Walked about a mile and a half through the gorgeous residential section mixed with fine restaurants, upscale businesses and hotels to our regular Wong's grocery 
For crema, OJ and pop. Taxi'd back for $2 and enjoyed a 4th day in a row over 80.
(88 downtown set a record and 84 in Miraflores. They average 5 or fewer days over
85 per year and we've seen 2 this week. Everything is a little cooler and breezier 
above the Pacific and our condo was a perfect 74 with a cool soothing breeze.
Gotta get back to Hardy in San Francisco! Trying to ignore the Bulls and Hawks 
results.

Miraflores - Friday, March 20

Now we begin our 4 day weekend wind up to the Miraflores review. It's been seriously relaxing for both of us as well as very healthy due to the climate, sun and exercise opportunities. We decided to approach the final days without changing our general routine. Although we still might make breakfast 1 day at the Puku Puku Cafe. They say the coffee they serve is the very best in Peru and the pastry is better. 
So we slept in and didn't get around to coffee until 1030. Worked, read, chilled on the balcony until 1 when we walked to La red, yet another fabulous culinary delight.
Irene's shrimp look like a painting that belonged in an art gallery.
She loved them. I had my (believe it or not) favorite meal so far, a half pound of
perfectly cooked beef sirloin with an exquisite gravy heavy with cilantro. The rice and beans and accompanying habanero sauce were outta this world..another 10.
Walked over 3 miles on a very hot day for Miraflores. We strolled the inner District, took a lotta pictures and wore ourselves out. The temperature (83) is at least 5 degrees warmer away from the beach with much less breeze. Still not a drop of rain and when it mists (hasn't the last 3 days) it dissipates in the air. Watched Roanic beat Nadal while the 20 year olds went at it below. Followed the Bulls and Mirotich 
as they beat Toronto for the 3rd straight time. 

March 18

We had intended to have breakfast at Tanta but couldn't due to work related delays.
So we went for lunch. Well worth the effort. Fried wontons with chicken and rocconto cream served with guacamole. A Green Tamale (cilantro laden delight) and Lomo Soltado (Beef tenderloin sliced with rice, sweet onions, mushrooms and sweet red peppers in a beef gravy enhanced differently by each chef).

Irene had the paella which was loaded with shellfish and chorizo.
We taxi'd each way and hung out at the condo because of business and my huge blister. Oh well! A quiet and beautiful afternoon and evening ensued. A magnificent sunset followed by some good soccer and a good book. Reached 81 for the second straight day. The Limeno's are acting like its 95! Everything is relative.

Wednesday, March 18

Worked all morning and enjoyed coffee and the constant movement below. Biking.Parasailing.Soccer.Volleyball.BBall.Walkers.Runners. Great theatre in general. Meandered over to Costanera 700, the world famous Restaurante for a 230 Rez. Chef Humberto Sato has been featured on Anthony Bourdain's CNN show and many others. It did not disappoint. Irene had fried fish rowe and I had Langostinos  Tempura. The service was superb and we actually had a private room all to ourselves in which Bourdain ate with Sato. Very cool indeed. We ordered more food for dinner to go and hurried back to put it in the fridge while still hot. The sea bass and bouillabaisse were delicious at 8PM! Fell asleep reading about 1030 getting used to Glitzky as a PI. It hit 81 degrees today!

St. Patricks Day in Lima

After another delicious cup of Columbian Aribica on the balcony we headed down
the Malecon to Larcomar. We actually found 2 excellent maps after searching
for days. Hit the Starbucks at the Marriott for agua and a respite before heading to Alfresco's for lunch. Great place in an energetic residential neighborhood just off
the Malecon. Really enjoyed the food, the service and the price! Walked to Wong's supermercado and got some essentials. This Wong's is on the second floor of a high rise close to the restaurant. Both stores are held to an excellent standard
of cleanliness, freshness and service. Prices are about 10% higher than Ecuador.
(About 20% less expensive than the US on most items, especially produce)
Took a taxi for $3 back to the condo. Worked the phone for a couple hours and 
fell asleep reading the further adventures of Dismas Hardy and Abe Glitzky "Keepers."

Monday

Slept in until 9. Got a few business calls in and checked in with the office. 
Wound up with a morning full of crunching numbers for a CEO client
that was in need of help for his presentation to stockholders. It appears to have
worked out and looks like a deal is in the offing so we headed to celebrate 
at the number 1 Ceviche restaurante in the whole world "LaMar".
We enjoyed a shellfish extravaganza and a fantastic grouper Ceviche.
Wontons stuffed with crab, shrimp and lobster in special sauce were next.
Decided to cover some streets we hadn't walked yet and spent about an hour 
at the Wongs Grocery Market (think Publix/Whole Foods). Taxi return was $2.25.
Games keep getting better down at the Park. Outstanding futball/soccer+volleyball 
Is being played by all ages. The 20 something soccer and volleyball games are worth watching! ......Cutting into my reading time.

Lima City Bus Tour

Walked 3 miles down the Malecon and wound up at Larcomar.
Took a cab to Parque Kennedy and grabbed a 3 hour tour of downtown
Lima by day. Well worth it. Except for the Catacombs...Gross!
The streets were crowded with Peruvians enjoying their Sunday. 
The city alternates between modern buildings, Colonial architecture and grungy. 
Places to hang out and places not to hang out. But a huge vibrant energy
throughout. At this point we decided that Miraflores and the surrounding 
Oceanside Districts are the places to be. We returned to Parque Kennedy and had dinner at Cafe De La Paz, a French/Peruvian fusion restaurante that has been around a long time. It was packed outside so we had a top notch meal inside.
Onion Soup, Beef & Pepper Soltado Pizza, a seafood platter and seafood soup.
Fantastic + too much.Take home time. Returned to Our Malecon De La Marina condo.

Time to make a few observations: The Miraflorens are pretty and they are in shape.
They are friendly and affable. There is a city vibe of hustle and bustle reminiscent 
of Chicago with a homey suburban Oak Park/Naperville/Huntington Beach feel.

Saturday in Miraflores

Up at 8 to head down to the Balta Parque and watch the hangliders take off. Right off the 400' cliff with a gentle 15 mile an hour breeze. Amazing to see as 1 after another took flight. Walked back to watch a senior futbol game that was highly contested with some hard feelings, bumps and bruises. These 50'year olds take it very seriously. Took a cab across town ($2) to Kennedy Park where DBl/deck bus beach tour was just taking off. We spent 2 hours on the cliffs and beach 
roads below, watched a guy dive from about 150' into the very cool Pacific.

Grabbed a "Pepito Manolo" steak sandwich at Manolos (9) and headed back to
the condo. 

Sunny every day so far with some rolling fog/mist coming and going in the early and late parts of the day. Started John Lescroart's "The Keeper" and dozed off 2 hours later. Temps were 79/70.

Mercado for lunch on Friday the 13th

It's Friday, March 13th. We had coffee on the balcony after sleeping in until 10. Edwin the tech arrives, installs
a new router with repeaters, and we have the wireless internet speed we expect. 

Off to Mercado, (10) another Gaston Acurio wonder of a restaurant. Irene had pulpo
while I tried Ceviche and pig. Best meal so far in a string of fabulous restaurants. 

Took the upper deck Mirabus tour of Miraflores and got to see the District.  It's very clean, teeming with energy and good vibes. Very upscale with 5 star hotels
and restaurants everywhere. Very Southern and Central California like. They are building everywhere. In 5 years this place is going to be a major tourism destination.

Came back to our Condo and chilled. A walk in the seafront park (3 miles long on the cliffs above the beach) put the evening to rest. 78 degrees today and 68 tonight

Day 2 in Miraflores

Woke early. Had coffee on the balcony while the District (Miraflores is a District of Lima) awakened. Runners and walkers everywhere on various journeys.
Stayed there chatting until 11 when the internet tech came to review the sad situation. Gonna try a new router with repeaters. He will return mañana. Heading to the highly rated Pescador Capitales restaurante for lunch at 1.

Irene had octopus, langostinos and scallop ceviche with a large portion of 
Grilled octopus (pulpo). I had a lobster risotto and a pork shoulder with Mango sauce and boiled Peruvian yellow potatoes. The restaurant was a large open vibrant scene with a business and upscale slant. Service was impeccable and the ambience was simpatico! We loved it. 

We walked by Mercado and La Mar on the way to and fro--2 more of the superb restaurantes on Calle La Mar which the locals call "Calle Gastronomica". Two miles covered on a "Hot" Lima day...it reached 81 today. Lots of sun. We haven't seen a drop of rain yet and don't expect that we will.
Sat on the balcony over the 180'ocean view and chilled with an special sugar cookie a la Irene.

Waking Up in Beautiful Miraflores

Slept in until 9! Enjoyed watching our section of Miraflores wake up. 
There are myriad bikers, runners and walkers streaming by on the paths
designated for each as well as a waiting line for the next vball or futball game.
There is a small open stadium futbol pitch and 2 large bball/vball courts below.
No hangliders this early as the mist is still burning off. Decided to make our way to Larcomar, a famously located Mall built into the cliffs above the ocean. First class.
Ate a fine breakfast with a spectacular 180 view. The 3 mile walk back deserved a taxi ($2.25) and we got one. It turned sunny and 76 while we were out. The Malecon is absolutely gorgeous.

Back at the condo we went on....and mostly off the net, wrestled with the TV and 
wound up on the balcony of eternal serenity.
We watched the sun set on the Pacific and headed to the Asian/World fusion, highly rated Costazul restaurante with Chef Perroquet. His son waited on us and it was a truly memorable evening of fine dining. Skinned Octopus with garlic olive oil drizzle and avocado and tomato slices with toasted French bread strips. Causa with fried sea bass, maize, yucca and herbs. Shrimp and crab filled empanadas with 3 awesome dipping sauces. A large Sea Bass filet with garlic pepper sauce and white rice. A "10" pure and simple for Tripadvisors number 6th rated joint in Lima. Causa by the way is a Peruvian dish of mashed potatoes with lime stuffed with Avacado, crab, shrimp,fried sea bass or a combo or all of the above. Right up my alley!

Miraflores District of Lima, Peru - March 10, 2015

Welcome to Irene & Pats Lima Peru review. 

This will be the second trip to  review an area of the world that we might want to spend more time in. We will be all over the globe and hope that some day some of you may join us or be able to make some of your own travel decisions based on our input. In 13 and 14 we pretty much fell in love with Salinas Ecuador and we  Have decided to make many a return trip. This year we will review the Miraflores District of Lima. We have studied this area on line for a couple  years and it sure sounds like a probable keeper. The sheer beauty of the  coast must be breathtaking in person based on all written and visual  accounts. In the fall, we will head back to Salinas until Ruairi and Stacey's  Wedding. Then on to Penang Island in Malaysia to undertake a similar review.

The People: In Lima there are about 8 million residents, 3rd largest city in the America's. 15% of the population is White. 37% are Mestizo. 45% are Indigenous People. A fraction are Black or Asian. In Miraflores about 30% are White and 67% are Mestizo. There is a stream of Indigenous Peruvian People coming into Lima daily. These Provincianos are made up of Serranos and Cholos (Migrants of the hill and mountain country)and they have changed the make-up of Lima's inner city. There is no evidence of these people in Miraflores, San Isidro or Surco. They are the poverty stricken class that work the most menial jobs available in Lima. Money and education determine class here as in most places. The difference is very apparent when comparing neighborhoods. 

Our time in Miraflores: We have rented a condo that is on the northwest side of Miraflores. It's on top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean and just off of restaurant row which Limeno's call "Calle Gastronomica". Lima and Miraflores specifically is the foodie haven of South America and named as the Gastronomical Capital of the Americas (as in North, South and Central) since 2009. The area abounds with great restaurants and hotels. The weather is rarely over 80 or under 60 anytime of year, 70 is the norm. Significant rain just doesn't happen. The humidity is comfortable at about 70% this time of year. It is significantly higher (80-85%)in their wintertime which makes the high 60s feel warmer. Right away we found out: *Driving is a little nuts but there is a technique similar to Italy (daring cat & mouse) *Pedestrians are an endangered species with no crosswalk laws like in the US. *The people of Miraflores are wonderful and very helpful in introducing Gringos to their slice of the paradise pie.  *Tourism is strong and getting stronger. Lots of visitors from Australia, Europe, Asia and the rest of South America.

Arrive Lima, Peru

Arrived in Lima, Peru on time at 8:47 PM  after long but pleasant flights with a change of planes in Mexico City.
Peruvian Shuttle provided a black SUV limo for a $20, 20 minute trip to Miraflores.
Our driver spoke English and we made plans to reconvene for the return trip.
We found the Condo loaded with goodies if not extravagant in furnishings.
The balcony and fabulous views instantly made up for any minor shortcomings.
The Pacific is beautiful, powerful and magnificent all at once.
180 views of the beaches and cliffs that make up an absolutely stunning Miraflores!
We drank agua, took in the view and almost fell asleep sitting up at 1030.